Located a short subway ride south from Shibuya, Jiyugaoka is a suave and sophisticated area that feels like Europe. It is a perfect place for a leisurely afternoon stroll and sophisticated dining!
Izakaya are part bar, part restaurant and part something undefinable. Izakaya often serve drinks like sake, shochu and whiskey soda as well as skewers and other snacks.
1. Japanese Food
A night out at an izakaya can be a lot of fun, especially if you have the right place in mind. These are smoky, noisy places that offer a variety of food and drinks. Some have low tables and chairs where you sit on cushions or in a Western-style chair, while others have more traditional Japanese seating, such as benches or tables with mats. Some are small and cozy, while others have large rooms with many people.
The food in an izakaya is usually made with ingredients from Japan, China and other Asian countries. The emphasis is on seafood, sea vegetables and rice, which are abundant in Japan. A key ingredient is umami, which comes from fermentation of soy sauce or other seasonings, and also from kombu or katsuobushi (smoked and dried skipjack tuna flakes).
There are many different types of izakaya food, and the menu at each establishment can vary. Some specialize in a particular type of fish, such as tuna sashimi or monkfish liver. Others focus on yakitori, which are grilled chicken skewers. Still other restaurants feature various kinds of noodles, such as soba and udon.
For those with a sweet tooth, there is a wide selection of desserts. Taiyaki is a fish-shaped cake that is popular during winter festivals in Japan. It is often filled with azuki sweet bean paste, and it can be enjoyed with a cup of hot green tea. Dango is another classic Japanese dessert, which consists of small dumplings with sweetened rice flour and azuki beans on a stick. 自由が丘 居酒屋
For those wanting a less traditional taste of Japan, the yokokocho area of Jiyugaoka offers many small eateries serving food that is both cheap and delicious. Karaage, or Japanese fried chicken, was invented after World War II to take advantage of the surplus of wheat flour. This dish, along with a variety of other breaded and fried foods, is commonly served at izakayas. Other Japanese favorites include steamed vegetable medley, gyoza and kageyamarou chashu (steamed shark fin shaomai in a bamboo basket). Then there are the infamous natto, which divides the nation like Marmite, with some claiming it to be disgusting and others loving its full-bodied salty and sour flavor.
2. European Food
Known as an osharena machi (bedroom town) for its upscale shopping and restaurants, Jiyugaoka is also home to more relaxed areas perfect for afternoon strolls. These picturesque spots feature quaint streets lined with a wide variety of shops from knick-knacks to cameras, as well as trendy fashion stores and boutiques. There are also a handful of delicious restaurants to try as you explore Jiyugaoka’s European atmosphere.
A popular spot in the neighborhood is La Vita, a small piazza with Italian-inspired buildings and a miniature river. The space is a wonderful place to escape the hustle and bustle of Tokyo, and it’s a must-visit for anyone looking to indulge in some afternoon dolce far niente!
Another great spot for a quick bite is Rusa Ruka, a restaurant famous for its fluffy oven-baked pancakes. You can choose from a range of sweet and savory options, including chocolate orange, lemon cream pie, and caramel banana. The restaurant is a favorite among locals, and it’s no wonder why with its mouthwatering selection and 90-minute window for free pancake refills.
Although the show’s deceptively simple plot focuses on Goro’s exploration of Japanese food, it doesn’t shy away from other controversial topics in Japan. In episode 2 of Season 4, for example, we see Goro sample the beef feijoada and picanha of a Nikkeijin-owned restaurant. While he professes his love of “real” Japanese cuisine with a contented sigh, he also observes how the food’s preparation is marked by the community’s heritage and culture—a subtle reminder that not all aspects of Japanese society are as insular as the country may seem.
It’s these subtle commentary on contemporary Japanese society, and the ways in which food can represent different social groups, that give the show a unique depth that sets it apart from other izakaya-based dramas. While some Japanese people insist that traditional Japanese cuisine is a definitively distinct and unchanging entity, the reality is that many immigrant communities, Zainichi communities, and other marginalized socio-economic groups have contributed significantly to the modern Japanese culinary landscape. In addition to being a fun and entertaining show to watch, Jiyugaoka Izakaya Escapade is an excellent way to learn more about these fascinating inter-cultural interactions in Japan.
3. Drinks
Izakaya is a tricky word to define; part bar, part restaurant and part something in between. Often smoky and noisy, the menu is filled with a wide range of Japanese and sometimes international drinks and snacks. Traditionally, the portions are small; the idea is to sample a few things and enjoy them over the course of a night out. Larger izakayas typically offer all-you-can-drink specials, which cost a fixed price for a specific amount of time.
Drinks may include beer, shochu (Japanese distilled spirit), cocktails, chuhai (shochu-based low-alcohol drinks), and soju. Some izakayas have their own signature drinks and others specialize in certain types of food, such as grilled meat or seafood, fried foods, or regional delicacies. Most izakayas are open for evening dining only, but some, especially larger chains, have lunchtime options as well.
As you browse the menu, it’s a good idea to ask your server for recommendations by saying “Osusume wa nandesuka?” or simply: “What do you recommend?” It’s common for izakayas to offer all-you-can-drink plans that allow guests to order refills on their favorite alcoholic beverage as many times as they like.
Most izakayas have counter seats, tables and chairs, or sunken tatami-mat floors where you can sit and relax. A waitress or hostess will usually seat you, and in some cases you may be asked to remove your shoes before sitting down. Depending on the establishment, you might also be asked to leave your shoes in a shoe storage chest near the entrance.
Izakayas can be a fun and entertaining place to spend an evening, and they’re an excellent option for groups looking to share drinks and food. The food is delicious and the atmosphere is lively and welcoming, but you should note that it’s not a quiet environment. In addition, some izakayas do not accept credit cards, so be sure to bring cash with you. In general, tipping is not practiced at izakayas in Japan. However, it’s a good idea to leave a small tip if you receive exceptional service. It’s always appreciated! You’ll find an abundance of izakayas across Japan, but they’re particularly abundant in Tokyo, Osaka and Kyoto.
4. Atmosphere
Jiyugaoka is renowned as a fashionable area where trendy Tokyoites come to shop and dine. Its narrow brick or stone-paved laneways offer an inviting walk, away from the larger avenues of other parts of the city.
The district also boasts a range of izakaya, from low-cost chains to high-end establishments popular with locals. Typically informal and a bit rowdy, izakayas are a good option for travelers who don’t want to spend too much money on their dinner, but who still enjoy great food in a lively atmosphere.
In addition to serving a variety of foods, izakayas also serve a wide range of drinks. Locals often begin their evening with beer, either on tap or in a pitcher, and many izakayas serve top-notch sake (nihonshu) as well. Shochu, a traditional Japanese spirit, is also served in many izakayas, as is umeshu, a lightly sweet liqueur made from Japanese apricots.
A number of izakayas are themed restaurants, with decor and menu items reflecting a particular time or region in Japan’s history. A school-themed izakaya, for example, serves all-you-can-eat edamame and a variety of other school-related dishes. Other izakayas, such as the “Sweets Forest”, are more lighthearted and whimsical.
If you are interested in learning more about izakaya, check out Izakaya: The Japanese Pub Cookbook, which features beautiful vignettes of a few unique and authentic Tokyo izakayas. Another excellent resource is Rice, Noodle, Fish: An Illustrated Guide to Classic Japanese Izakayas.
Those who prefer a more traditional experience can visit Tea House Kosoan, a beautifully restored space near Kumano Shrine that was built in 1954. Visitors sit on tatami mats and sip green tea while watching the world go by. The building’s name, Kosoan, means “old mulberry retreat,” and the foundations are still lined with gorgeous mulberry wood.
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