A night spent in a Japanese pub (izakaya) is a quintessential Tokyo experience. Part bar, part restaurant, these smoky, usually loud and rowdy places serve up must-try Japanese drinks and small plates. A common style of izakaya dining is nomi-hodai or tabe-hodai, where patrons pay a set price to order food and drink as they please within a certain time limit. Otako The city’s wintertime favorite, Otako serves oden, a comforting hotpot of slow-simmered meat and fish served with rice or noodles. The restaurant has been in business for over a century and draws an eclectic clientele, from salarymen to Ginza hostesses dolled up in kimonos. It also offers a variety of miso, shoyu and chicken broth ramen ($17) and two vegetarian options ($15), including tantanmen with smoked tofu and triple garlic or a spicy vegetable wonton dish. Chef Yoshihiro Narisawa, who honed his skills at Tokyo’s famed Tsukiji Fish Market, combines French haute cuisine with a profound understanding of Japanese ingredie...
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